Build a Brick Paver Patio
Project of the Month: November Here, you can see the beginning stages of the job. First thing that is necessary to any patio, is to establish the size. This patio is approximately 22' x 25' and has no straight edges, only gradual curves. For help determining how much patio material (pavers, edging, sand / crushed stone) you'll need, click here. Critical: Be careful not to walk in or otherwise disturb the sand once it's leveled. For a walkway or other narrow projects, use pipes or wood rails on either edge of the paving area. For wider projects, like a patio, place pipes about 6 feet apart. For more pictures of finished patios, click here. Here is a list of some of the patterns to decide from.
For the first project, we chose to construct a patio that would also need and small retaining wall around the outside of it due to the slope.
Tools needed for Patio Installation:
1. Shovel
2. Wheelbarrow (Skid Steer)
3. Garden Hose with fine spray nozzle
4. Rigid Garden Rake
5. Masonry Saw, Brick Splitter or Broad-Blade Chisel for cutting and fitting Pavers
6. Carpenter's Level / String Line Level
7. Wood "Screed" Board, a 2' x 4' at least 3 feet long
8. Trowel or Long Flat Blade Screwdriver
9. Broom
10. Mechanical Plate Compactor, Rubber Mallet, or Hand Tamper
11. 1" Pipe
12. Tape Measure
Preparing the Area:
a. Check with local utility companies to determine the location of any underground lines.
b. Outline the area with stakes and string. The prepared area should extend beyond the edge of the pavement equal to the depth of the base, or a minimum of 6".
c. Using your shovel, remove sod or dirt to the combined depth of the intended layers of pavers, sand, and crushed stone. The area you plan to pave should slope 1/4 per foot or more away from building foundations or other permanent structures to ensure proper drainage.
The integrity of the patio is determined by its footer, so it is very critical to make sure the soil is compacted property before you move to the next step. This is accomplished through tamps or compactor machines. In this case, we used a jumping tamp on the first level and then a plate tamp to compact the base. 
When building a retaining wall, you always want to remember to start at the lowest area first and then work your way up. After compacting the soil and each level of retaining wall has been built, crushed stone needs to be placed into the excavation. Slightly dampen stone to seal up air pockets. Using a hand tamper or plate tamp, tamp no more the 4" (depth) of Crushed Stone at one time. Continue this process until you are at desired height. 
Critical: If too much base material is tamped at one time, it may result in pavers that move over time.
Framing the Borders:
a. Edging is necessary to ensure that your brick pavers remain firmly in place and stay beautiful for years. Begin by installing but not anchoring your selected edging material (in this case, it is our retaining wall).
b. Once you're satisfied with placement, anchor the edging material by driving spikes (at least 8" every 2-3 feet). For brick edging, you'll need to dig a trench deep enough so that the top edge of the brick edging will be flush with the paved surface of your finished project.
c. One or two edges can remain unanchored until final paver installation to ensure a tight fit. Now you can remove the pavers you temporarily installed.
Installing the Bed:
a. Place two pieces of 1" diameter pipe or two pieces of wood cut to the desired depth of the sand (1") along the edges of the paving area and fill the area with sand.
b. Pull your "screed" board across these rails, much like a squeegee, to ensure a uniform sand depth of 1".
c. Remove the screed rails, fill their identations with loose sand, and level with broom or trowel as needed. 
Laying the Pavers:
a. Start at a corner-- if possible, one that includes a fixed edge, such as a wall, curb, or existing sidewalk. Set one run of pavers on the sand, from the corner along two adjacent borders. As you go, be sure to work from the laid brick and not the sand. If you disturb the virgin sand, re-level it with a broom or trowel before laying more brick.
b. If you are planning to use a plat tamp, you can skip the following step: If the manufacturer of your selected pavers recommends, hand tamp the bricks with a rubber mallet to set them into the sand bed. Work as far ahead as you can reach, then tamp the pavers behind the two leading courses. Tamp firmly to force some sand into the spaces between the pavers and to level each paver. Never press or tamp the leading edge of pavers in the sand.
c. Continue to lay brick in your pattern, working from the starting corner to the unanchored edge. Every 3-5 feet, put a string across the front of your edge, using the original perimeter brick as a reference, to maintain alignment. If the pattern wanders somewhat, use a trowel, screwdriver, or wide-blade putty knife to make small adjustments. Don't be concerned with small gaps between pavers, you'll be filling them with sand later.
d. Once all the full brick has been installed along the final, unanchored edge, cut or split any brick as needed to complete the pattern.
e. Inspect your work, making final adjustments in the brick height and joint alignment.
Finishing Up:
a. Anchor the rest of the edging material (not necessary in this project).
b. Spread and then sweep dry sand into all the joints to lock the brick in place.
c. To further set the brick, the following methods are typically used.
d. When you're finished sanding, sweep off the excess and backfill the edges of the paved area with dirt, planting grass unless other landscaping is to be done at the perimeter. The sand you swept into the joints will gradually settle, so you should sweep additional sand into the joints as needed following the next few rain storms until the pavers are fully stabilized.
Mechanical Compation: (Method One)
If the paver manufacturer recommends, you may use a plate tamp to set the brick and gently tamp it down. Be sure to spread a layer of sand over the pavers to prevent contact between the compactor and the brick. Alternately sweep sand into the joints and compact until the joints between all pavers are full. 
Tamping with a Rubber Mallet: (Method Two)
if you chose or the manufacturer recommended this method, go back over the entire paved area, tamping each paver individually to be certain each is firmly set and leveled. 
