Aeration and Seeding
Aeration: ('air'-ey-'ashun') The process of exposing to air (so as to purify); "the aeration of the soil."
Over time, the soil condition of your lawn can become compacted. This can occur from normal usage or can occur as a result of construction for new homes. Aeration of lawns with compacted soil, will facilitate a more efficient usage of water and fertilizer applied to your lawn.
Aeration is typically achieved by using a machine which removes plugs of soil from the lawn. This allows water and fertilizer to be absorbed more readily and thus improves the health and beauty of your lawn. A byproduct of aeration is the reduction of thatch and associated problems. Click here for gallery of aeration & seeding.
There are Many Benefits of Aeration:
- Water and Fertilizer can be used more efficiently by your lawn
- Thatch will be minimized
- Grass roots can grow deeper and healthier
- Soil compaction is reduced
- Improved lawn health
- Improved lawn appearance
- Ability of lawn to withstand more activity
Benefits of Seeding and Aeration Together:
Planting additional grass seed into your existing lawn is called over seeding. Post aeration over seeding is a great way to enhance your lawn. The newly sewn seeds can take advantage of the aeration process to more rapidly fill in bare spots and thicken existing turf.
An additional aspect of over seeding, is to add alternate varieties of grass. This may be necessary, if we determine that your existing lawn is of a variety which is more susceptible to certain diseases or insects in your locality. Over seeding, in this case, can be done without guesswork. We utilize alternate or newer varieties of seed which are known to help with these issues. This is possible through research, and we invite you to see our research page.
Seeding at the time of aeration will make your lawn healthier, more beautiful, and more durable allowing more activity without the usual signs of wear.
What occurs when we aerate?
Small plugs are removed from the soil and will remain on the turf. Over the next 2 weeks, these plugs will deteriorate due to rainfall or normal watering.
What occurs next?
Within 2 weeks, you will see a healthier, more beautiful lawn developing as a result of additional watering and oxygen in the roots and soil. (See watering schedule.)
1. What is the best grass for growing in the shade?
Zoysia, Fine fescue, and rye are the best shade grasses. In heavy shade with wet conditions rough bluegrass may also be used. Rough bluegrass should not be used where it can escape into sunny areas of the lawn. It will grow fine in the spring and fall, but will turn brown and ugly in the summer.
2. I’ve got alot of moss under my tree, what should I do?
You need to physically break up the moss with a stiff hand rake or power rake. Prune the trees where possible for better light and use a fine fescue. Moss usually indicates too much shade for grasses. Consider using other plants such as ornamental sedge (looks like grass), hostas, pachysandra, dwarf mondo grass, etc.
3. Can I just scatter seed on top of the soil under the trees?
NO! This never works very well. The ground must be roughed up about a half inch deep and the seed needs to be slightly covered with about a quarter inch of soil.
My lawn is just a mess of weeds and thin turf.
How can I rejuvinate the lawn?
1. If 50% or more of your lawn is the grass you desire, like tall fescue, then controlling the weeds along with modest fertility may allow the grass to compete better and completely cover the lawn.
2. Use a broadleaf herbicide to control weeds such as dandelion, clover, and creeping charlie. Use a pre-emergence grass herbicide to control weedy grasses like, crabgrass and foxtail.
3. If you want to give up on the lawn and start over then kill all existing grass and weeds with a non-selecitve herbicide like Round-up. After at least 14 days (or longer depending on your chemical) you can use a slit seeder to plant a new lawn. 